3 December – Kaikoura and to Christchurch

The motel was pretty decent, but a bit noisy compared to our previous isolation.
We took the local shuttle taxi to station and whale watch place, where we waited for about half an hour to see if they would sail. We whiled away the time with decent coffee and toast. Then on screen the announcement changed from pending, to cancelled. “seas too rough for safe sailing”. The later trips which were probably ok to run wouldn’t be back in time for our train, so we decided to walk along the esplanade, and out to the seal colony on the headland of the peninsula. The wind was still fairly strong.
Out past endless motels, and a park where a plaque explained that Kaikoura was name (meaning the crayfish?) because a Maori chief had stopped to cook food here, while on a journey chasing three of his wives who had left him. Not a popular guy. When at last he found the first one she had been changed into greenstone. He found the other two and the same fate had befallen them. Anything better than returning to their husband?
Alongside this legend, were the street names – Yarmouth, Ramsgate, Margate not forgetting Scarborough.

We passed the New Wharf, and then the Old Wharf, established by a certain Mr Fyffe, an early settler and whaler. There’s a memorial garden in town, set up by Lydia Washington to commemorate those who died in the world war, and decorated by whale bones.


the brick chimney is part of an old wharf shed, possibly the custom house

After the Old Wharf we came to a fishing area which is being conserved to replenish stocks, then came to Harmer’s beach and a drinks and food stall by the roadside. There’s a board walk and benches erected by Kaikoura Lions. A small freshwater area supports several families of mallard, lots of ducklings, though there was a squabble of gulls which made me wonder if canard √† l’orange was on their menu. Right at the end of the peninsula we reached the car park leading on to the seal colony. Not many seals around, and those lumbering and lazy.


We climbed the path to the top of Point Kean, but didn’t have time to walk much further.

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The noticeboard map of the peninsula looks like a suitably mythical beast.

However, we had a train to catch, so we made our way back towards the station with a pause to finish off some of our lunch supplies, attended by a seagull. I found myself harbouring murderous feelings towards it, and was sorely tempted to lob pebbles in its direction, but restrained myself.

At the station we sat outside, muffled in coat and hat, writing draft blog entries.
Inside for a coffee we noticed that the later whale watching trips were cautioning of the danger of seasickness, but they had at least gone!
Too late for us, as we had to go away on the Coastal Pacific KiwiRail south to Christchurch, through scenery which may have been less majestic than some, but was refreshingly agreeable.

We took a taxi from the station to reach Red Door Cottage, which is spectacularly good, and welcoming, with lots of basics in stock Рalways a major plus.
After a brief chill out, we explored the nearby Papanui Road, and the Merivale Centre, which yielded a few relatively expensive restaurants, and a decent supermarket. Eggs and beans on toast was,our gourmet choice for the evening, before a quick watch of Tv news and bed.